Dead row or column: the swap test that names the culprit

A dark, stuck or wrongly coloured horizontal row or vertical column is a localized fault in one module or in what feeds it data. A single test — swapping the module with its neighbour — almost always settles it.

Quick answerSwap the affected module with a healthy neighbour. If the fault follows the module, the module is to blame (driver IC, row-scan MOSFET or solder joint). If the fault stays in place, look at the flat cable, the HUB board or the receiving card behind it.

Read the fault before opening anything

A dead row on a single module comes from that module: faulty driver IC channel, row-scan MOSFET, or tired solder joint.

The same dead row crossing several aligned modules points to the flat cable or the HUB board feeding that row.

A column lit permanently regardless of content — the « caterpillar » — is the signature of a shorted LED. A « cross » appearing only when the pixel should light signals an open-circuit LED.

The swap test, step by step

  1. Power down the cabinet concerned.
  2. Unclip the affected module and a healthy neighbour from the same cabinet (magnetic or screwed depending on model).
  3. Exchange their positions and power back up.
  4. The fault followed the module: order a spare of the same reference, same batch if possible.
  5. The fault stayed in place: swap the flat cable, then as a last resort the HUB board.
  6. Note the exact position (cabinet, module) for the report and the parts order.

Beware of VH voltage

Never try to « rescue » a weak row by changing the VH voltage at random in the software: only the manufacturer's value for the exact driver IC is valid, and a mistake degrades the whole wall. In doubt, escalate.

When to call an engineer

Module swapped with no change, rows that come and go with temperature, or several rows in unrelated areas: the diagnosis deserves an expert eye before ordering parts.

A failure right now? Lédia, our AI engineer, guides you step by step, 24/7, photos included.

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Frequently asked questions

Can I swap a module myself?

Yes on most recent walls: modules unclip from the front with the cabinet powered down. If the wall is at height or on a façade, use someone trained for work at height.

The fault follows the module: repair or replace?

For a module, replacement is almost always faster and more reliable. Keep the faulty one: many can be workshop-repaired (driver, solder) and become a spare.

Why is the row a strange colour rather than black?

Each driver IC handles a group of LEDs of one colour. A dead red channel leaves the row cyan, a dead blue channel leaves it yellow. The swap reasoning stays the same.

Will a replacement module show a tint difference?

Possible if it comes from another batch. Reload calibration coefficients after replacement; see our colour and calibration guide.

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